Hand-polished; usually, for every level of woodworking, this is a very unpopular task, just as powerful grinding is not enough? Some people may ask why there are so many electric grinders to get the job done. Why do we even need to polish them by hand?
The simple fact is that hand abrasive cutting has many advantages over strong abrasive cutting, and these advantages are usually ignored.
First of all, the final hand sand before trimming is always better than the surface finished with an electric sander, because no matter how delicate the sand you use, the power tool will always leave scratches. You can also fine-tune spots that may require extra care, and for electric sanders, the spots may be too small.
The ability to manually sharpen contours and narrow spaces is another reason that requires manual abrasive cutting. Power sanders, even detailed sanders, will be difficult to adapt to the contours created by milling or spindle shaping.
Now that you have chosen to manually polish your project, here are some of our main tips to help you get the perfect finish.
Of course, the purpose of 14 abrasive cut off saw is to remove any traces or flaws left after the wood has been processed.
First, you should use paper that is rough enough to easily eliminate the most serious defects, and in other cases, use as fine a grit as possible. If the coarse sand you use is too thick, you will eventually have to do more work to remove the scratches.
In most cases, the starting particle size is 80-120 particle size, and if there are still significant scratches after processing, only 80 is used, otherwise the particle size is preferably set to 100 or 120.
Once the grit is found, the grit can be treated systematically and do not easily miss the main steps between the two. If the grit is skipped, it will take longer because the finer grit will not remove the initial abrasive cutting marks. Starting from 80? Move to the next roughness level, ie 120g or 150g, and then move to a very fine particle size of around 220g.
In most cases, this is the best grit you need to master. However, it is best to use a low angle of light for the final inspection to check again. If there are more residual scratches, please continue.
2. Smooth the surface
For flat surfaces, abrasive cutting blocks must be used as this will increase the speed and efficiency of the work and provide a more uniform finish due to the uniform distribution of weight across the block.
Some people may just fold a piece of sandpaper and start working, but if you are looking for great results, it may not be enough. The cost of your effort will far exceed the price of the polished block.
For the more traditional people there, the cork wrapped with abrasives is fine, and it is also a very portable option.
However, for the best comfort and efficiency, we recommend the following handles.
The shaped block will provide great comfort and is available in either a lightweight soft foam version or a medium version. The abrasive cutting block is not only ergonomic, but with abrasives and extractions will provide you with a dust-free abrasive cutting solution.
When using a sandpaper block, replace the abrasive as much as possible, otherwise the surface quality will deteriorate due to the reduced paper efficiency.
3. Polish resin wood, paint and varnish with sandpaper
When abrasive cutting wood such as pine or fir, these resins often block the standard abrasive very quickly, resulting in poor performance. The same is true when taking paint or varnish from wood for repair work. To alleviate this problem and the trouble of constantly changing abrasives, we recommend using paper that is resistant to blockage or non-blocking.
This can take many different forms. The product has a stearate coating that will fall off when you sand it, scrape the resin or paint off with it, and leave a clean grit to improve the grinding efficiency.
Other products have an open mesh design that allows waste to pass directly through them, greatly reducing clogging. These products are ideal for final finishing on a variety of projects.
4. Abrasive cutting mouldings
One of the easiest ways to remove scratches or burn marks when making decorative edges with a planer is to use a grinding sponge. A soft sponge can be easily formed to fit the contour of the molded article to ensure a uniform connection to the surface of the wood. Remember to start grinding before the burn so that there is no visible depression in the place where the original mark is located.
First use coarse sand that is just enough to remove most of the plutonium, then gradually process the finer grit.
Abrasive cutting mouldings
The golden rule of hand-polished is to ensure that the grain is sanded, as this prevents the wood fiber from tearing, which is easy to show, especially when the wood is soiled. If this is unavoidable, then it is necessary to practice the process of making the wood rough enough for dyeing but still fine enough to avoid scratches.